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          美國人未來六個(gè)月可能面對(duì)什么?草莓或成奢侈品

          Eva Roytburg
          2025-09-02

          勞動(dòng)經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家預(yù)測,到明年初美國農(nóng)產(chǎn)品價(jià)格可能上漲50%至100%。

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          圖片來源:Murat Deniz—Getty Images

          牛奶從7美元飛漲到14美元,草莓變成奢侈品,人們被迫買加工食品……研究勞動(dòng)力和農(nóng)業(yè)的經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家認(rèn)為,這些都是未來六個(gè)月消費(fèi)者將面臨的情況。

          然而消費(fèi)者“根本不知道發(fā)生了什么”,得州農(nóng)工大學(xué)布什政府與公共服務(wù)學(xué)院(Texas A&M’s Bush School of Government)勞動(dòng)經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家雷蒙德?羅伯遜告訴《財(cái)富》。他曾為美國多家機(jī)構(gòu)提供貿(mào)易與勞工政策方面的建議。

          羅伯遜說,特朗普政策引發(fā)的政治喧囂分散了選民的注意力,而導(dǎo)致超市物價(jià)飆升的真正推手,包括勞動(dòng)力短缺和關(guān)稅等正持續(xù)產(chǎn)生更嚴(yán)重的影響。驅(qū)逐非法移民導(dǎo)致農(nóng)田里人手減少,農(nóng)場失去了“絕大多數(shù)”由無證工人構(gòu)成的勞動(dòng)力。與此同時(shí),對(duì)番茄、咖啡、橙汁等日常食品新征收的關(guān)稅推高進(jìn)口成本,幾乎沒有便宜的替代品可供選擇。

          “影響是明確無疑的,”哈佛肯尼迪學(xué)院(Harvard Kennedy School)墨西哥貿(mào)易專家、經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家戈登·漢森告訴《財(cái)富》,“相關(guān)商品價(jià)格面臨上行壓力。”

          白宮未立即回應(yīng)《財(cái)富》的置評(píng)請(qǐng)求。

          漢森補(bǔ)充說,唯一的問題是農(nóng)民、批發(fā)商和零售商承受的痛苦,最終都會(huì)體現(xiàn)在超市貨架和消費(fèi)者的購物車?yán)铩?/p>

          冬季的食品價(jià)格寒潮

          第一波漲價(jià)很可能在今冬襲來。羅伯遜預(yù)測,隨著庫存清空和新合同生效,到明年初農(nóng)產(chǎn)品價(jià)格可能上漲50%至100%。而且與過去幾十年不同,以往美國政府會(huì)悄悄放松邊境執(zhí)法以保證農(nóng)田有足夠勞動(dòng)力,如今政治環(huán)境下不會(huì)再有類似“緩沖”措施。

          “就像看著洪水襲來,海嘯正在逼近,水位已經(jīng)上漲了5厘米,”羅伯遜警告說。

          勞動(dòng)力短缺的根源在于,美國出生的工人根本不愿意按外籍無證工人的工資干體力活,羅伯遜解釋道。無證工人摘草莓時(shí)薪大概18美元,而美國公民去冰淇淋店打工就能賺到同樣工資。

          要讓美國公民去田里干活,“必須支付每小時(shí)25—30美元”,羅伯遜說,對(duì)大多數(shù)農(nóng)業(yè)生產(chǎn)者來說這樣的成本難以承受。

          勞動(dòng)力短缺已在實(shí)際中顯現(xiàn)。在佛羅里達(dá)州的多佛,帕克斯代爾農(nóng)場的馬特?帕克告訴The Daily Adda,其家族企業(yè)嚴(yán)重依賴專門為外國農(nóng)業(yè)勞動(dòng)力提供支持的H-2A簽證項(xiàng)目填補(bǔ)缺口。

          然而經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家表示,該計(jì)劃規(guī)模太小且程序過于繁瑣,不可能解決危機(jī)。漢森指出,盡管近年來H-2A計(jì)劃有所擴(kuò)張,外籍工人仍只占農(nóng)場勞動(dòng)力的“一小部分”。

          “這一計(jì)劃要大規(guī)模擴(kuò)張,達(dá)到百萬而不是幾十萬,才能滿足美國的需求,”漢森說。

          簽證每個(gè)季度都會(huì)到期,農(nóng)場需要為每個(gè)工人重復(fù)申請(qǐng)、提供住宿并負(fù)擔(dān)交通費(fèi)用。

          “如想連續(xù)五年雇用同一名工人,就得辦五次簽證,”漢森補(bǔ)充道。

          羅伯遜表示同意,但他認(rèn)為特朗普政府完全可以利用人臉識(shí)別等安全技術(shù),將H-2A計(jì)劃大幅擴(kuò)容。

          “他們就是不做,真讓人抓狂,”羅伯遜說。

          關(guān)稅雙重夾擊

          過去在美國作物歉收時(shí),進(jìn)口還能作為補(bǔ)充,現(xiàn)在也無法緩解問題了。墨西哥可全年種植牛油果、番茄等作物,然而特朗普的關(guān)稅導(dǎo)致這些農(nóng)作物更昂貴。

          “墨西哥的牛油果產(chǎn)量比美國多得多,”漢森說,“這不是說現(xiàn)在種幾棵牛油果樹,明年就能收獲。”

          他還表示,大概六個(gè)月后,消費(fèi)者就會(huì)感受到關(guān)稅沖擊。

          “消費(fèi)者不會(huì)看到關(guān)稅對(duì)產(chǎn)品價(jià)格的全面影響,但至少能感受到50%。”

          對(duì)消費(fèi)者而言,驅(qū)逐非法移民與關(guān)稅的“雙重夾擊”可能很快會(huì)改變購物方式。經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家警告,果蔬和乳制品受到的影響最大,很多家庭將被迫購買更便宜的加工食品。

          “隨著蔬菜價(jià)格一路飆升,人們只能轉(zhuǎn)向高熱量的深度加工食品,最終對(duì)健康造成負(fù)面影響,”羅伯遜說。

          在漢森看來,政策制定者唯一能做的就是鼓勵(lì)“降低關(guān)稅”。

          “原因很簡單,”羅伯遜說,“如果能讓更多合法的農(nóng)業(yè)工人流入并降低關(guān)稅,消費(fèi)者的境況就會(huì)變好。其他試圖彌補(bǔ)現(xiàn)有政策損害的政策都沒有意義。”

          類似爭論并不是新鮮事。1950年代以來,關(guān)稅與移民問題一直是美國周期性政治斗爭的話題,當(dāng)前局面只是沖突的“極端表現(xiàn)”。歷史經(jīng)驗(yàn)表明,一旦價(jià)格飆升,選民就會(huì)迫使立法者采取行動(dòng)。“現(xiàn)在特朗普還向國會(huì)施壓,要求對(duì)移民保持強(qiáng)硬立場。等到接近中期選舉,消費(fèi)者抗議物價(jià)飛漲時(shí),強(qiáng)硬路線就會(huì)開始松動(dòng),”他解釋道。

          “政治就是這么回事,”漢森說。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

          譯者:梁宇

          審校:夏林

          牛奶從7美元飛漲到14美元,草莓變成奢侈品,人們被迫買加工食品……研究勞動(dòng)力和農(nóng)業(yè)的經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家認(rèn)為,這些都是未來六個(gè)月消費(fèi)者將面臨的情況。

          然而消費(fèi)者“根本不知道發(fā)生了什么”,得州農(nóng)工大學(xué)布什政府與公共服務(wù)學(xué)院(Texas A&M’s Bush School of Government)勞動(dòng)經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家雷蒙德?羅伯遜告訴《財(cái)富》。他曾為美國多家機(jī)構(gòu)提供貿(mào)易與勞工政策方面的建議。

          羅伯遜說,特朗普政策引發(fā)的政治喧囂分散了選民的注意力,而導(dǎo)致超市物價(jià)飆升的真正推手,包括勞動(dòng)力短缺和關(guān)稅等正持續(xù)產(chǎn)生更嚴(yán)重的影響。驅(qū)逐非法移民導(dǎo)致農(nóng)田里人手減少,農(nóng)場失去了“絕大多數(shù)”由無證工人構(gòu)成的勞動(dòng)力。與此同時(shí),對(duì)番茄、咖啡、橙汁等日常食品新征收的關(guān)稅推高進(jìn)口成本,幾乎沒有便宜的替代品可供選擇。

          “影響是明確無疑的,”哈佛肯尼迪學(xué)院(Harvard Kennedy School)墨西哥貿(mào)易專家、經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家戈登·漢森告訴《財(cái)富》,“相關(guān)商品價(jià)格面臨上行壓力。”

          白宮未立即回應(yīng)《財(cái)富》的置評(píng)請(qǐng)求。

          漢森補(bǔ)充說,唯一的問題是農(nóng)民、批發(fā)商和零售商承受的痛苦,最終都會(huì)體現(xiàn)在超市貨架和消費(fèi)者的購物車?yán)铩?/p>

          冬季的食品價(jià)格寒潮

          第一波漲價(jià)很可能在今冬襲來。羅伯遜預(yù)測,隨著庫存清空和新合同生效,到明年初農(nóng)產(chǎn)品價(jià)格可能上漲50%至100%。而且與過去幾十年不同,以往美國政府會(huì)悄悄放松邊境執(zhí)法以保證農(nóng)田有足夠勞動(dòng)力,如今政治環(huán)境下不會(huì)再有類似“緩沖”措施。

          “就像看著洪水襲來,海嘯正在逼近,水位已經(jīng)上漲了5厘米,”羅伯遜警告說。

          勞動(dòng)力短缺的根源在于,美國出生的工人根本不愿意按外籍無證工人的工資干體力活,羅伯遜解釋道。無證工人摘草莓時(shí)薪大概18美元,而美國公民去冰淇淋店打工就能賺到同樣工資。

          要讓美國公民去田里干活,“必須支付每小時(shí)25—30美元”,羅伯遜說,對(duì)大多數(shù)農(nóng)業(yè)生產(chǎn)者來說這樣的成本難以承受。

          勞動(dòng)力短缺已在實(shí)際中顯現(xiàn)。在佛羅里達(dá)州的多佛,帕克斯代爾農(nóng)場的馬特?帕克告訴The Daily Adda,其家族企業(yè)嚴(yán)重依賴專門為外國農(nóng)業(yè)勞動(dòng)力提供支持的H-2A簽證項(xiàng)目填補(bǔ)缺口。

          然而經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家表示,該計(jì)劃規(guī)模太小且程序過于繁瑣,不可能解決危機(jī)。漢森指出,盡管近年來H-2A計(jì)劃有所擴(kuò)張,外籍工人仍只占農(nóng)場勞動(dòng)力的“一小部分”。

          “這一計(jì)劃要大規(guī)模擴(kuò)張,達(dá)到百萬而不是幾十萬,才能滿足美國的需求,”漢森說。

          簽證每個(gè)季度都會(huì)到期,農(nóng)場需要為每個(gè)工人重復(fù)申請(qǐng)、提供住宿并負(fù)擔(dān)交通費(fèi)用。

          “如想連續(xù)五年雇用同一名工人,就得辦五次簽證,”漢森補(bǔ)充道。

          羅伯遜表示同意,但他認(rèn)為特朗普政府完全可以利用人臉識(shí)別等安全技術(shù),將H-2A計(jì)劃大幅擴(kuò)容。

          “他們就是不做,真讓人抓狂,”羅伯遜說。

          關(guān)稅雙重夾擊

          過去在美國作物歉收時(shí),進(jìn)口還能作為補(bǔ)充,現(xiàn)在也無法緩解問題了。墨西哥可全年種植牛油果、番茄等作物,然而特朗普的關(guān)稅導(dǎo)致這些農(nóng)作物更昂貴。

          “墨西哥的牛油果產(chǎn)量比美國多得多,”漢森說,“這不是說現(xiàn)在種幾棵牛油果樹,明年就能收獲。”

          他還表示,大概六個(gè)月后,消費(fèi)者就會(huì)感受到關(guān)稅沖擊。

          “消費(fèi)者不會(huì)看到關(guān)稅對(duì)產(chǎn)品價(jià)格的全面影響,但至少能感受到50%。”

          對(duì)消費(fèi)者而言,驅(qū)逐非法移民與關(guān)稅的“雙重夾擊”可能很快會(huì)改變購物方式。經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家警告,果蔬和乳制品受到的影響最大,很多家庭將被迫購買更便宜的加工食品。

          “隨著蔬菜價(jià)格一路飆升,人們只能轉(zhuǎn)向高熱量的深度加工食品,最終對(duì)健康造成負(fù)面影響,”羅伯遜說。

          在漢森看來,政策制定者唯一能做的就是鼓勵(lì)“降低關(guān)稅”。

          “原因很簡單,”羅伯遜說,“如果能讓更多合法的農(nóng)業(yè)工人流入并降低關(guān)稅,消費(fèi)者的境況就會(huì)變好。其他試圖彌補(bǔ)現(xiàn)有政策損害的政策都沒有意義。”

          類似爭論并不是新鮮事。1950年代以來,關(guān)稅與移民問題一直是美國周期性政治斗爭的話題,當(dāng)前局面只是沖突的“極端表現(xiàn)”。歷史經(jīng)驗(yàn)表明,一旦價(jià)格飆升,選民就會(huì)迫使立法者采取行動(dòng)。“現(xiàn)在特朗普還向國會(huì)施壓,要求對(duì)移民保持強(qiáng)硬立場。等到接近中期選舉,消費(fèi)者抗議物價(jià)飛漲時(shí),強(qiáng)硬路線就會(huì)開始松動(dòng),”他解釋道。

          “政治就是這么回事,”漢森說。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

          譯者:梁宇

          審校:夏林

          Milk prices jumping from $7 to $14, strawberries that feel like luxury goods, and a switch to processed food: This is the six-month outlook economists studying labor and agriculture see for consumers.

          Yet these consumers “don’t have a clue what’s going on,” Raymond Robertson, a labor economist at Texas A&M’s Bush School of Government who has advised U.S. agencies on trade and labor policy, told Fortune.

          Instead, Robertson said, voters are distracted by the political noise of President Donald Trump’s policies, while the real drivers of grocery sticker shock—labor shortages and tariffs—continue to tighten their grip. Deportations have thinned fields and stripped farms of undocumented workers, who “overwhelmingly” make up the agricultural workforce. At the same time, new tariffs on staples like tomatoes, coffee, and orange juice are pushing up costs on imports, leaving few affordable alternatives.

          “The impacts are unambiguous,” Gordon Hanson, an economist and expert on Mexican trade at Harvard Kennedy School, told Fortune. “It’s upward pressure on those prices.“

          The White House did not immediately respond to Fortune’s request for comment.

          The only question, Hanson added, is how much of the pain farmers, wholesalers, and retailers can absorb before it lands on the grocery aisles and in consumers’ carts.

          Winter grocery chill

          The first wave of grocery-price increases will likely hit this winter. Roberson predicted produce prices could rise 50% to 100% by early next year as inventories clear and new contracts kick in. And unlike past decades, when Washington would quietly ease border enforcement to keep fields staffed, today’s political environment suggests no such check.

          “This is like when you see a flood coming, the tsunami is coming in, and the water’s gone up two inches,” Robertson warned.

          The reason for the labor shortage is American-born workers simply do not want to do manual work at the wages typically offered to foreign-born, undocumented workers, Robertson said. Undocumented workers are used to getting paid around $18 an hour to pick strawberries—the type of wage American citizens can get working at an ice cream shop.

          You would have to pay American citizens “$25 to $30 an hour” to get them in the fields, Robertson said, an unfeasible cost for most agricultural producers.

          The shortage is already visible on the ground. In Dover, Fla., Matt Parke of Parkesdale Farms told The Daily Adda his family business is leaning heavily on the H-2A visa program—designed particularly to support foreign agricultural labor—to fill the gaps.

          Economists, however, say the program is too small and too cumbersome to solve the crisis on its own. Hanson noted while H-2A has expanded in recent years, guest workers still account for “a small fraction of the total” farm labor force.

          “It would have to be much, much larger, in the millions rather than the hundreds of thousands, to meet U.S. demand,” Hanson said.

          The visas also expire each season, requiring repeated applications, housing, and transportation costs for every worker.

          “If you want to hire that same worker five years in a row, you have to get five different visas,” Hanson added.

          Robertson agreed, but thought the Trump administration could easily expand the H-2A program dramatically to meet the capacity, especially given the innovations of facial recognition technology and other security measures.

          “It blows my mind that they don’t do this,” Robertson said.

          Tariffs creating a double bind

          Imports, once a fallback when U.S. crops ran short, can no longer offer relief. Mexico has a structural advantage in crops like avocados and tomatoes—growing the crops year-round—but Trump’s tariffs have made them more expensive by default.

          “Mexico produces way more avocados than we do,” Hanson said. “It’s not like you can plant new avocado trees and get an additional crop next year.”

          Hanson also said shoppers will feel the tariffs in about six months.

          “Consumers are not going to see the full pass-through of the tariffs to product prices, but they’re likely to see at least 50%.”

          For consumers, the double bind of deportations and tariffs could soon reshape grocery shopping. Economists warn produce and dairy are most exposed, and many families will be forced to trade down to cheaper, processed foods.

          “As vegetables [prices] keep going up and up, people will just substitute towards these very hot, ultra-processed foods, which ultimately will have adverse effects on their health,” Robertson said.

          The only thing policymakers could do, in Hanson’s mind, is encourage “l(fā)ower tariffs.”

          “It’s simple,” Hanson said. “If we were able to create larger flows of legal farmworkers and lower tariffs, consumers are going to be better off. Any other policy that tries to undo the damages of an existing policy makes no sense.”

          These fights aren’t new, he said. Tariffs and immigration are topics the U.S. has had periodic political battles about since the 1950s, and today’s environment is a “very intense manifestation” of those conflicts. But history shows that once prices spike, voters force lawmakers’ hands. Now, Trump is pressuring Congress to maintain a hard line on immigration. But then you get closer to midterm elections, and consumers are lashing out against higher prices, and your hard line begins to weaken, he explained.

          “That’s just kind of how politics work,” Hanson said.

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